1990s Gruen Curvex Re-issue 10 Micron Gold Plating Small Seconds Tank / Tonneau Case Quartz Watch
1990s Gruen Curvex Re-issue 10 Micron Gold Plating Small Seconds Tank / Tonneau Case Quartz Watch
Reference Number: N/A
Manufactured Date: 1990
This circa-1990 Gruen Curvex revives one of the most recognizable designs of American watchmaking's Art Deco era, combining a graceful tonneau-shaped case with beautifully sculpted gold-tone detailing. Its softly champagne-colored dial features raised Arabic numerals, elegant dauphine-style hands, and a recessed small-seconds register at 6 o'clock, framed by a delicate railroad minute track. A curved rectangular crystal and distinctive double-ribbed case ends emphasize the watch's architectural design, while a Swiss quartz movement provides its timekeeping. Completing the watch is a Gruen-branded, French-made brown leather strap, offering a refined complement to the warm gold-tone case.
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Sizing
Sizing
Case: 27.5mm
Dial: 23.75mm
Lug-to-Lug: 36.25mm
Thickness: 9.5mm
Strap: 18.7cm
Strap Style: Leather Pin Buckle (Original Gruen Strap)
Timekeeping
Timekeeping
Watch Type: Quartz Analog
Watch Movement: V8 980 163
Watch Complications:
- Small Seconds
Movement Caliber: Swiss Quartz
Watch Lume: None
Watch Night Light: None
Color & Finishing
Color & Finishing
Case: Gold
Dial: White
Strap: Brown
Research & Restoration
Research & Restoration
Caseback Style: Snapback
Restoration Thoughts / Notes:
- The Revolutionary Gruen Curvex of 1935 - Introduced in 1935, the original Gruen Curvex was among the most innovative rectangular wristwatches of its era, distinguished by a mechanical movement that physically curved to follow the contours of the wrist. Rather than simply placing a small, flat movement inside a curved case, Gruen engineered specially shaped movements that allowed for slimmer cases without sacrificing the size of the mechanism. The original Curvex became one of Gruen's signature accomplishments, with increasingly sophisticated calibers introduced throughout the following decade.
- An Art Deco Revival - During the late 1980s and early 1990s, the Gruen name appeared on quartz-powered recreations of the company's celebrated Curvex designs. This example revives many of the original watches' defining characteristics, including its elongated rectangular silhouette, sculptural gold-tone casework, prominent Arabic numerals, and subsidiary seconds dial. Unlike the earlier mechanical Curvex models, these later interpretations paired the vintage aesthetic with compact, battery-powered Swiss movements.
- Ten-Micron Gold Plating and French Craftsmanship - The caseback bears the unusual inscription "10 MICRON G.P. BACK," specifying a 10-micron gold-plated back, alongside a separate marking identifying the bezel as base metal. Another distinctive feature is the Gruen-branded leather strap, marked "Made in France" and "Since 1874," a reference to the brand's nineteenth-century origins. Together, these details reflect the blend of historic styling and international watchmaking influences characteristic of the Curvex revival period.
Original Catalogue Description: N/A
Original Wholesale Price (1990): N/A
Original Retail Price (1990): N/A
